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Posted by | Evil Kristos | June 8, 2011 | No Comments

Finally. I found a place I truly like. Primosten is everything I expected. It is chilled out and beautiful. There are literally no sights so one can just kick back and relax. The setting is absolutely spectacular and the people seem friendlier too. I like it.

For once I didn’t have to get up in the middle of the night. I woke up relaxed, packed my stuff, had breakfast and started moving towards the bus station. Just outside the city wall is a small park. From there Zadar even looks nice. Still; I didn’t warm up with it.

The bus left 45 minutes early. Had I trusted bus website I would have been screwed. Thankfully I was early so I caught it. Two hours later I arrived at my next stop. The weather still wasn’t exactly brilliant. I did like what I see though. There is no hostel in Primosten so I settled for a nice room for a little under 30 Euro. It could have been worse. It even had air condition.

My walk around town took less than half an hour. It was bit too windy to be enjoyable but still; no complaints. Primosten is located on a peninsula, connected to the mainland only through a tiny little land bridge. On top of the hill is a church. I didn’t go there. It could not possibly look any better from close by.

Next to the town is another peninsula that is dominated by a few hotels. They don’t look like much and I didn’t care for the beach either. At least they didn’t spoil the overall impression. I don’t fancy the pool they built right at the beach. Its massive glass dome and it is spoiling the view a bit. Why on earth do people need a pool right next to the beach?

Just opposite the peninsula is a small island. Its called Smokvica and apparently there is a nudist beach. The only problem I see with it is that one can’t get there. No boats. A strange concept that is. May be it is too quiet at the moment. Since I couldn’t get there I can’t tell if the beach there is any better.

There is one thing I will recommend. When you sit on the peninsula opposite the village, which is only a few minutes walk away, you get a decent view over Primosten at sunset Since there was no sun but a lot of wind instead today I couldn’t enjoy it as much as I would have. Even on a crappy evening like today it was good though. In front of you is the village, in the background are hills. With the water moving out of the bay it creates an optical illusion where the whole village seems to glide out into the open sea. It is quite astonishing, the more disappointing that the conditions weren’t very good.

There isn’t much going on here from what I can tell. The town shuts down early. This is probably one of the places where you come with your wife or concubine, chill out and praise Eros. As I said, I can see the appeal of Primosten has and that’s a big improvement over the last place. I wasn’t too keen on the local fish soup and the stuffed squids were burned, I do like their thinking though. They seem to have good ideas what to do with sea food. I was just a bit unlucky with the restaurant I picked. At least the service was friendly so I would still recommend it.

If the rest of Croatia was like this I could like it. I guess I’ll find out. The next place I’ll check out is called Trogir. It at least sounds nice.

I have very little hope for Split so I’ll skip that. And if nothing exciting comes up I’ll skip Dubrovnik as well. Too famous, too many people wrote how wonderful it is and from what I hear it is a “must see” for middle aged Americans. I met far to many of them already. As it stands I can only get disappointed with the city so I better don’t go to there. We will see. There is no point planning more than a day ahead. I don’t even have a guide book so I couldn’t even if I wanted to.


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